creative jewish mom

A Visit To Delft, The Netherlands

On a rainy Sunday just before Rosh HaShana we took the train from Amsterdam for a visit to the historic Dutch city of Delft. I enjoyed visiting Delft, and while certainly "Dutch" and charming the city has a much heavier feeling to it than say Haarlem, which I posted about here. These feelings could be on account of the overcast skies, so please don't take offense anyone, or maybe because of it's roots as an industrial city once filled with factories?

Delft is in the region called South Netherlands, between Rotterdam and The Hague, and is now home to a very large Technological University. It was also the home to the reknowned painter Johannes Vermeer, and at one time a major producer of Delft pottery, with many many factories producing the blue and white pottery inspired by pottery imported from China. 

LOVE this little turet, that I in fact thought was the Royal Delft factory. But I was mistaken and we wandered around and actually got quite lost looking for the factory/museum. We even by accident wandered through the campus of the university, which surprisingly enough was totally empty on account of it being Sunday. That just goes to show you that the Dutch must know that the weekend is important. In the United States many university campuses are still quite buzzing on Sundays with students going to the library to study and so forth!

We finally found the Royal Delft factory, which I blogged about here,  just next to the university, and I just had to take a photo of this typical Dutch front yard.....bench, check, orchids in window, check, lace curtains, check, love it!

The Delft town hall, located on the town square is quite an imposing building, built in 1620!

Love the little buildings lining the town square.

A floating seating area on the canal!

A little bridge in a new section of town just beyond the town square.

And back to the historic canal houses that we love so much!

Beautiful architectural details.

And then suddenly seemingly out of nowhere I spy some hebrew letters between the branches. Of course my two ten year old girl companions didn't believe me, as really what would a synagogue be doing here? I of course had read that there's a historic synagogue in Delft, but didn't think we'd have time to find it. 

I was so very excited to have happened upon it "accidently" just hours before Rosh HaShana! It turned out that inside there was an exhibit about historic synagogues in The Netherlands, but two of us don't read Dutch and we really didn't have time to look too closely.

The synagogue was built in 1862 and flourished for half a century, but by World War 1 only 100 Jews lived in Delft, and by 1942, 5o or so were deported by the Germans, and only 12 returned after the war. The synagogue was sold to the city but eventually bought back and re-opened as a community center with services every two weeks and on holidays.

Heading back to the train station.......

 Lots of red brick buildings in Delft, which I believe are mostly painted in Amsterdam?

 The gorgeous train station, undergoing some major construction around it.......

And in constrast, some fun modern architecture that we saw at one of the stations during a change over. I have since forgotten which station this is, can one of my Dutch readers please remind me? I do remember that someone screamed at me "Frau!" as they thought I was dangerously close to the edge taking this photo, though really I wasn't, promise! 

And just on a side note, when you buy a train ticket in The Netherlands, they will be happy to print out an itinerary for you showing alternate routes and times, so amazing! This service was not offered to me at the very busy Central Station, but in Leiden the clerk happily offered it to me, and I was of course so very grateful to have an itinerary.

That's all for the Dutch leg of our European adventure, stay tuned for more adventures in a very different country!

The Royal Delft Factory And Museum

What to do on the Sunday before Rosh Hashana in The Netherlands with two ten year old girls? How about a train ride to the historic Dutch town of Delft, and a visit to the Royal Delft Pottery Factory? Sounds good to me, even though we did board the train without tickets, much to my daughter's shagrin, (not to worry, we bought tickets at the next major station.....) and we got a bit lost looking for the factory. But all in all, even with girls who don't love to walk around with no real plan in mind (as I do!) the trip was a great success, and it was fun learning about Delft pottery. 

In the museum you'll see lots of stunning versions of plates created for the Royal Dutch family for many historic occasions.

You can see a real painter adding the details to a piece of pottery, up close! Very detailed work, which explains partly why the pieces produced today cost a small fortune!

 I love the plates that include orange mixed with the traditional blue and white.

And the non blue and white versions of their work are also lovely.

 

This dining room gives us an idea of what a traditional Dutch dining room looked like around the time of the painter Vermeer, who lived and worked in the city of Delft.

 Love this traditional Dutch china cabinet, dreaming of one for my dining room!

The Royal Delft factory also at one point were producers of all kinds of ceramic tiles and architectural details for building projects, so part of the factory was once a showroom of sorts showcasing their work.

The garden courtyard displaying some of the architectural details that were once made here.

A very sweet mural that one passes on the way into the present day factory.

Because we visited on a Sunday, there were no workers in the factory, but we were still permitted to wander around within a roped off area. 

 Check out these huge kilns! That's it for our little visit to the Royal Delft Factory, stay tuned for my photos of the city of Delft.

Oh and by the way, admission for children is free to the museum, which is mostly the case for museums of all kinds all over The Netherlands. Another good reason to go! Or maybe another good reason for me to go back with all the kids in tow? Time will tell!

Haarlem, The Netherlands.....The Original!

When visiting Amsterdam, I highly recommend taking a day, or even just a few hours, to visit the city of Haarlem, a beautifully preserved Dutch town with lovely canals and architecture as well as a significant and reknowned shopping area. if you happen to be traveling with those who'd prefer shopping to wandering around the alley ways as I do, you can always meet up in the old town square after everyone has indulged in their favorite activities!

Haarlem is just a 15 minute train ride from Amsterdam Central station, and it's just a 10-15 minute walk from the station into the center of town. If you take the right road into town, there's even a shop that's also a tourist information center, and they have a free city map. Additionally one can even rent a bike in Amsterdam and reach Haarlem in just  1 1/2 hours apparently, which sounds great, for the slightly adventurous! And as you may not know, The Netherlands is very very flat, and there are many wonderful trips and sights to see by bike, complete with bike paths and drivers that are very accustomed to dealing with bikes!

Love the old brick Dutch architecture, a style that I did not see in Amsterdam, though I do remember seeing something similar in Harlem, New York, this original city's namesake!

A lovely garden spotted on our walk into the center of town..... 

The city's old market place/square, with cafe chairs set up to enjoy the precious sun!

A glimpse of Museum Row, the small street that leads to the Frans Hals Museum.

Love the old style Dutch calligraphy that one sees everywhere.

The magnificent garden at the Frans Hals Museum. A wonderful museum dedicated to the work of the Dutch master Frans Hals, who was from Haarlem. The museum is wonderful though not necessarily for everyone, as there are several rooms of very large classic canvases with nude subject matter that may be inappropriate for some. Oh, and if you do choose to visit, don't miss the amazing mid 1700's Dutch doll house, that was created by Sara Rothe'. An amazing example of the kind of doll house that many affluent women of that period created to resemble their own homes.

 Love this Dutch Art Nouveau tile mural, which I'm assuming is original.

This little scene on the canal with a row house complete with shutters just makes me so very happy.

Love this shot of twin classic buildings next to twin modern buildings with two blonds girls both wearing black! 

And last but not least, Haarlem does have a gorgeous river and a very nicely restored windmill, which of course completes the whole idyllic scene so very nicely!

Ahhhhh, Haarlem, so happy to have met you.......hope to be back again some day!

The Portuguese Sephardic Synagogue In Amsterdam

On this visit to Amsterdam I'm so happy to report that we did pay a very important visit to a stunning synagogue, completed in 1675 by Sephardic Jews originally from Spain! 

Just a little background for you. Jews were expelled en masse from Spain in 1492, while  Jews were expelled from Portugal in 1497. Of course those who were allowed to leave were the fortunate ones. Many were burned at stake for refusing to convert, and many gave in to the pressure to convert. For hundreds of years, the Inquisition continued to investigate those who had been forced to convert, and their descendants, on suspicions that in secret they still practiced Judaism. (Which indeed they did, in very secretive ways.)

Some of those who wished to practice Judaism freely found refuge in Amsterdam. During a substantial migration that took place in the 17th century, these Jewish refugees from Spain and Portugal called themselves Portuguese Jews to avoid being identified with Spain, which was at war with the Dutch Republic at the time.

The Amsterdam Sephardic community was one of the largest and richest in Europe during the Dutch Golden Age, and their very large synagogue reflected this. Unfortunately though many many years later roughly 4,000 members of the Sephardic community perished in the Holocaust together with Ashkenazic Jews from the region.

The synagogue has a very high vaulted ceiling, and to this day has no electricity. Stunning brass candle chandeliers hang through out the space and are lit prior to Shabbat services on Friday nights. (Though during the colder months I believe services are held in a smaller synagogue with heating.) This is something I hope to witness myself sometime, I'm sure it's breath-takingly beautiful!

The ceiling is dark, while the floors are covered in what seems to be unfinished floor boards, and I was quite surprised that they seemed to be un-swept. Then I read that they are purposely covered in a layer of thin sand, Dutch style, to muffle sound and keep the floor clean!

 A truly stunning space.

 And the women's balcony is just gorgeous, with a great view of all that's happening below.

I have a fondness for old engravings, so I certainly love this one which shows the synagogue on the left!

Entrance to the Portuguese Synagogue also grants admission to the Jewish Museum just across the street, and one can also purchase a guide in the gift shop of the museum for a walking tour of Jewish Amsterdam. I bought the booklet for a little self guided tour in the future, hopefully! 

Amsterdam LOVE.......A Second Visit

With the holiday of Succos in full swing, we are spending time with friends and family in the Succah, so this week I'll be posting photos of my latest adventures in The Netherlands and Spain! When I moved to Israel fifteen years ago life was so different that I never thought I'd have the desire to travel, but recently, after a few years of blogging and exposure to so many things around the world, I slowly felt a little wanderlust creeping upon me. And very fortunately for me, an old friend of my husband's who lives in Amsterdam with his family showed up at our house last year, along with an invitation to visit any time! Lucky lucky me......and since one visit to my now beloved Amsterdam just wasn't enough, exactly one year later I made a return visit with my daughter in tow, for some new European adventures, for which we are so very grateful. 

I LOVE Amsterdam because of the clean streets and amazing aesthetics which include an effortless mix of old and new, for example these fabulous red awnings.

I LOVE Amsterdam because when you look up there are these interesting steel beams with hooks that are used for moving furniture into the apartments through the windows. The entrance stairs tend to be very very steep with stair treads that are about half the depth of standard U.S. code, so movers would have a difficult time using the stairs!

I LOVE Amsterdam because there is a general love for beauty and those with ground floor windows tend to fill them with flowers and symmetric arrangements like this one, for the benefit of those passing by. Oh, and of course there are orchids everywhere, and in many cases small gardens and benches, which may or may not be for sitting, but sure look great and lend a homey feel to the concrete sidewalks.

I LOVE Amsterdam, because the Amstel River is gorgeous, and the Amstel Hotel is a stunning example of architecture. I was just trying to find a date for it's construction (around 1865) and learned that the hotel was orchestrated by Samuel Sarphati, who was of Jewish Sephardic Portuguese decent and also happened to be a physician who played a major role in helping improve sanitation in Amsterdam in the mid 1800's.

I LOVE Amsterdam because it has some amazing museums, including The Hermitage Museum, which is a branch of the original in St. Petersburg, Russia. The Amsterdam Hermitage is located in a building built in 1681, that was originally an old age home for women. (Don't miss the exhibit in the basement which recreated the kitchen from the old age home!) Today's museum is a brilliant blend of old and new, with a meticulously designed modern interior.

I LOVE Amsterdam because there are canals everywhere, and some even give the impression of being out in the country, like this tranquil spot in the De Pijp neighborhood.

I LOVE Amsterdam because even these tiny balconies are treated with the utmost care.

I LOVE Amsterdam because I just can't get enough of house boats which line the canals.

I LOVE Amsterdam because fresh flowers are a part of everyday life, and the floral arrangements are so very creative, like this one at the Hermitage Museum. And of course the flowers sold at the flower stands are so very beautiful, not a carnation in sight! No offense to carnations, but you know what I mean, right? 

I LOVE Amsterdam because the row houses just go on and on and on.

I LOVE Amsterdam because there is a very impressive respect for old buildings, which are meticulously preserved by the city. Many of the building are falling over, either to the side or even forward, and yet they are stabilized and left intact, as with this example which is leaning to the right so much that the concrete wedge between the two buildings is infact triangular!

That's it for my little slice of Amsterdam, for more photos see my posts from last year here and here and here, and stay tuned more photos of our travels!

Gorgeous Zaanstreek Region in The Netherlands

The area around the Zaan river, one of the world's first industrial regions dating back hundreds of years, is just a 45 minute bus ride from Amsterdam and is breathtakingly beautiful. There were once over 1000 operating windmills here, and it's also home to most of the other things you might associate with Holland: cheese, wooden shoes, sheep, canals......I can't wait to get back to this region again sometime and explore by bike or by boat, until then I'll just look at my photos and sigh, and be grateful for the fact that I even had the chance to visit in the first place!

A fun collection nailed to the side of the wooden shoe store in Zaanse Schans.

The Zaan river and the outdoor windmill museum at Zaanse Schans.

Majestic windmills, restored and in use today!

Whoever thought of making these shaped rooves was just brilliant!

From this windmill you can take a little jetty across the Zaan river ( for 1 euro) to the lovely little town of Zaandijk, with many beautifully restored homes, and a nice little walk.

Looking across to Zaandijk.

Homes in Zaandijk.

More.

A last glimpse at a beautiful little canal in Zaanse Schans. Truly picturesque. 

Arriving back in Amsterdam as the sun was setting. Wow. Historic architecture beautifully cared for (even though many of the buildings look they are only standing by virtue of being sandwiched between others) and water, lots of water. Love it.

Container Gardening in Holland

The Netherlands is the largest exporter of cut flowers in the world, which is no surprise since the Dutch people love flowers! Though I made my trip in the fall when the floral displays aren't at their peak, I enjoyed seeing flowers boxes and little gardens everywhere.

Gorgeous geranium window boxes complete the look!

A few begonias complement the window display of antique glass....

Love house boat gardens!

And these wonderful wooden planters near the sea look perfect.

An old decorative iron chair turned into a floral display.

A little garden on the sidewalk! That's all for now, hope you're all enjoying my photos of The Netherlands while I've been celebrating the Jewish holidays! 

Vintage Wooden Knitting Spool Collection

On my recent trip to Amsterdam, I noticed that most of the homes and apartments are designed with large windows to let in as much precious light as possible. And with this comes the traditional picture window at the front of the house which for many becomes a display area to delight those that pass by. I saw countless pots of orchids, candlesticks, flower arrangements of all kinds and then one day I came across this adorable collection of wooden knitting spools. And since most of you are crafters and lovers of all things vintage like me, I just had to share these photos with you!

Isn't it wonderful to have a collection to add to over the years? This one is fabulous, and it's so nice that the owner of the collection thought to share it with the world!

Do you have any interesting collections? That's all for now, running of to roast a leg of lamb, put my challahs in the over and tackle the pile of laundry that is occupying a bed that will be needed by a family of guests arriving soon! We are saying goodbye to our beloved Succah today and celebrating Simchat Torah with hours of dancing and festivities for all! All the very best!

Dutch Style - Joyful Color and Design From The Netherlands

A sweet little store across the street from the Anne Frank House museum

Wooden shoes, tulips, windmills, cheese.....these are the things that most people associate with Holland, though of course there's so much more! After my recent trip to The Netherlands, where I stayed in Amsterdam for ten wonderful days, I've put together a little collection of photos to show you the joyful aspects of everyday Dutch design that I noticed. 

A traditional design painted on wooden shoes.

A modern style house boat in bright colors.

A pink bicycle.

A Dutch door painted in a lovely color combination, the entrance to a historic windmill.

Love the enamel ware, mostly made in Poland (the quality pieces) or China, for sale at a great store just off the outdoor market.

Trademark Dutch blue and white Delftware patterns, love the bird cage found on tiles on a fireplace surround.

Fun bike bags everywhere.

Mugs with patterns by Pip Studios, a really fun Dutch company that sells great housewares and wall paper, with a distinctive modern Dutch cottage style.

Love the old signs.

Even the graffiti (I'm assuming that's what this is.....) was artful and very rare! And this artwork beautifully expresses how I feel about the Dutch aesthetic, love it!

Exploring Amsterdam.... Street Scenes...Canals....Architecture

The secret is out! I had the great pleasure of spending ten days with friends in The Netherlands around Rosh HaShana! Amsterdam is an amazing city, filled with historic and well cared for architecture, lots of water and boats and a certain European charm that I just loved. This is the first of a series of posts in which I'll share my favorite photos from the trip. The truth is, I could have taken photos almost every moment as there was so much to see, but after a few days I decided to just see everything through my eyes as opposed to through the camera, and only took photos when it was absolutely necessary! Enjoy.

Love the grey shutters, the red details on the boat.....

The "I amsterdam" sculpture with the Reijks museum in the background.

Central station in Amsterdam.

The modern bus platform at Central Station, with a view of the harbour.

A bridge over a canal, just down the street from the Anne Frank House museum.

A quote from Anne Frank artfully presented on the wall of a school named for her.

A typical canal in Amsterdam.

The Royal Palace at Dam square in downtown Amsterdam.

Some elegant mansions just across from the Reijks Museum.

Interesting architecture.

Another typically gorgeous street scene. Ahhh Amsterdam.